Obviously I’ve had quite a gap in posts, but with the definitely extra time this Christmas break, I’ll see what I can do to update for the past few months. My plan is to work backwards and take advantage of the saying, “A picture is worth a thousand words.”
I reached out to Anselm Lohmann, an old classmate of mine from the American Boychoir School who I haven’t seen since 2014. He and his family live in Geneva, and when he offered to host me for Christmas and show me around Switzerland, I jumped at the offer.
I flew up from Budapest on the 20th. The whole airport process took a fraction of the time as it would have in the US. Although I had no bags to check and could go straight through security (which took 5 minutes tops) with my pre-printed out ticket, I WAS surprised that NO ONE requested to look at my passport, at all.
The investments in this study year in Europe go a long way: this flight from Budapest to Geneva cost around $25.
In Geneva the staff for our entrance into the airport (we walked across the tarmac from the plane) was nowhere in sight. Perhaps they had just forgotten about this whole flight, but the whole plane of people had to wait behind the closed glass doors for 20 minutes before word got through to some security people, and one to another staff member who ended up just opening a side door and letting everyone through.
I met Anselm, and spent the night at his family’s apartment. I realized that I had assumed several things about the weather in Geneva because I was surprised by the relatively warm temperature and the rainy weather. It was relatively similar to the winter weather at home around Seattle.
The next day we took a train to a small, non-touristy village in the mountains called Grandvillard, by Gruyères (like the cheese), and hiked up to a high point, starting on a small road, and eventually continuing up over a fence at the dead end of a steep path. We had lunch up on a watering trough for the cattle which are herded up in these mountains during the summer, and got a quite good view as the clouds cleared completely out. The stars (or rather, sun, clouds, and snow/rain) aligned, and we even got a rainbow added to the already beautiful scene.
We headed back on the road going down a different way from where we’d had lunch, and ended back at our origin point after 1.5 hours or so (we had a bit of an adventure and detour trying to find a bridge over the river, which included some bushwacking). We both agreed that this all was much better than any museum visit: exploring around on the ground really gives a nice, direct taste of a country.
Had a very nice lunch, with Anselm’s favorites: dried whole bananas and sweet whole bell peppers. I got to fill up my water bottle (which I realized was the one I’d crunched up with to a gallon jug and brought from the US) from a water trough/spring in the village with pure Swiss mountain water.This little shepherd’s hut was at our highest point for the day.See the rainbow! It was 10 times stronger in real life. This is where we had lunch.This is looking down at one of the villages in the valleyI could do a whole separate post on the universal impeccability of Swiss firewood stacking. This is DEFINITELY an indicator of their cultural priorities. Another thing that Anselm pointed out is that the roads, even service roads up in the mountains do not have any cracks, and are all very well maintained (unlike the French roads “across the border 🙂 ) ALL the firewood I saw was this neat, whether it was out in a field, 1000 meters up in an isolated mountain forest, seen in someone’s garage, etc. Note the way that they build the ends of the stack (which is a bit different than my family does at home. There’s more of an arc leaning into the rest of the pile)Here’s a very old little chapel in one of the mini-villages on the way down the mountain. The date on the door is 1778; 1684 above the door.going across the fields and bushwacking trying to find a bridge across the riverThe bridge we were looking for was nonexistent, so we looped back, went down a steep hill, hopped over the fence onto the road, and got back soon to Grandvillard. Note the, again, impeccably stacked and organized lumber at the right of the picture. Everything is organized in this way: even where there is a mass of various things (as we saw in some warehouses from the train), when you look closer everything is neat.We stopped in Bern, and saw the Christmas market for 20 minutes, on the way to Basel, where we stayed with Clarissa Anselm’s sister and her boyfriend Daniel.These are some amazingly detailed and elaborate pop-up cards that were at the Christmas market in Bern.For all those Seattlites… 🙂 I wasn’t expecting to see a Seahawks jersey in SwitzerlandFrom left to right: Clarissa (Anselm’s sister), me, Anselm, and Daniel. They taught us TICHU, a swiss card game (a very good one), after being treated to the Swiss dish Raclette (basically melted cheese poured over potatoes). Liking cheese as much as I do, I’ve basically made something like Raclette this past semester: now I’ll be replicating it on purpose when I get back to Hungary.
Samuel, if there is one thing you could bring back it would be some gruyere cheese from Gruyere. I hope you got to try it. It looks like an amazing trip for the holiday. Please take good care of yourself! Merry Christmas!!
Samuel, if there is one thing you could bring back it would be some gruyere cheese from Gruyere. I hope you got to try it. It looks like an amazing trip for the holiday. Please take good care of yourself! Merry Christmas!!
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I’ll keep that in mind next June when I head through Lisbon back to Seattle! It certainly does taste delicious. Merry Christmas!
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